How to Hit a Draw for Lefties 5

This is the closing day of "drawing class," oldsters. There's just a few unfastened ends left to tie up. One ultimate reminder...

Each day has 2 posts -- one for righties and one for lefties --which are identical except for the diagrams and some instructions that might be clearer if I write them specifically for each type of player. The posts will be scheduled one minute apart so both posts will show up at almost the same time. Any of you who have questions can leave them in the comments of the appropriate "handedness post," which should eliminate a lot of confusion. And yes, this is the post for left-handers.

If you have accompanied the previous posts in the series, you ought to have a great manage on how to get a regular draw on your photographs. The aiming technique we've used -- actually aiming the club face down our intention line and closing our stance to create the important sidespin -- will give you a easy approach to always goal your shot where you want it to go. It's actual that, if you purpose the ball immediately at the flag, the ball will generally tend to land on a line with the flag and scoot beyond it, supplying you with a barely larger draw than you supposed. The most effective restore for that is to just aim a chunk to the left side of the flag; then the ball will land to the left side of the flag and scoot closer to it.

The purpose the "new ball flight legal guidelines" seem so atypical is that they are trying to take this aiming trouble into consideration. In the drawing above, your membership face is aimed along the dotted line while your body -- and therefore your swing direction -- is aligned on a route to the left of the ball flight.

One of the quirks of the "new ball flight legal guidelines" is that we now understand the ball starts out on a flight route a good deal toward where the club face points than to wherein the swing direction is aimed. The draw you are simply hitting with our setup does not make as large a curve as I've proven inside the diagram above, however I needed to make it massive enough so that it will see it in reality.

What the "new ball flight laws" suggest -- and what instructor Joseph Mayo was explaining in the video that started this whole series of posts -- is that you can take this whole scenario into account without changing your setup from what we've been doing by making one simple change. If you set up the way we've been doing in this series BUT flip the club for your hands so the face is aimed slightly to the left of your goal line (but now not enough to aim it farther left than the flight direction), the ball should start out farther to the left and draw back to the pin. With this method you can still set up directly at your target BUT the ball shouldn't draw past the pin.

You can use either method you choose to hit your draw -- the one we've been using or the altered one Mayo explains in the video -- and get good results. I do think my way is simpler, and that's why I taught it to you.

But if there is something between you and your target (like a tree), THE ONE THING YOU SIMPLY MUST REMEMBER TO DO regardless of which method you choose is to make sure the face of your club is aimed around the tree (or whatever) so you don't hit it. I guess that should be obvious -- you're all intelligent people -- but that's really the big change the "new ball flight laws" have shown us. (Under the old understanding of ball flight, we all thought you could aim at the tree and the ball would curve around it as long as your swing path was aimed around it. It won't. Science marches on...)

Now, to reply the last of the questions Peter left on the video submit:

• How much further right is the swing path ?
• If club face is 10 degree, swing path 15 degree ?

The answer to both of Peter's questions is the same (and since he's right-handed I'll rephrase these answers for lefties)... There is NO SET AMOUNT. If you need a small draw, you close your stance less; if you need a big draw, you close your stance more. As long as your swing path is aimed farther left than the club face, you'll get a draw. The bigger the difference is between the two, the bigger the draw will be.

There's a certain amount of trial and error here, and there's no way around that. You'll figure out how much you need for your normal shots pretty quickly because it's just a matter of comfort; how do I need to set up to be sure I'll get a draw? For trouble shots, you'll have to experiment a little. But if you start trying to reduce it to a formula ("10 degree face, 15 degree path" for example) you'll just drive yourself nuts because there's no way to be that accurate with your swing.

And I suppose that quite lots covers the whole lot. You now have a technique to help you discover ways to hit a constant draw, and you realize a way to goal it. If you guys have any extra questions, simply leave them inside the remarks and I'll answer them.